---
Over my 15 years dealing with cashmere I have written at length on various aspects of the subject through different articles. Recently, I came across what I assume was an AI generated article confidently informing me that cashmere comes from sheep (for the record, it comes from goats) so I decided it was time to pull all of my articles together into one piece. What I hope to achieve is not to simply tell you that we use the best cashmere, but to give you tangible explanations of what makes great cashmere so great and why. Lastly, we'll look at how you can test for it. Be warned, this is quite a hefty read, so be prepared to wow (and bore) your friends with your encyclopaedic knowledge on the subject.
---
Cashmere is, and always will be, one of the last words in luxury. In fact, the word ‘cashmere’ has been used so often in conjunction with words like ‘quality’ and ‘luxury’ that people now associate them without question. When people see a label reading “100% cashmere” they subconsciously assume that it will be “luxury” and “quality”. It is essential to understand that not all cashmere is equal. That is why some sweaters pill and fall apart and some get better with age. That is why there can be such a vast difference in price between two items that are both technically 100% cashmere.
---
At every stage in the production of cashmere there are choices to be made. Each of these essential choices contribute massively to the quality, softness and ultimately the price of the final garment. Lets start at the beginning
---
Over my 15 years dealing with cashmere I have written at length on various aspects of the subject through different articles. Recently, I came across what I assume was an AI generated article confidently informing me that cashmere comes from sheep (for the record, it comes from goats) so I decided it was time to pull all of my articles together into one piece. What I hope to achieve is not to simply tell you that we use the best cashmere, but to give you tangible explanations of what makes great cashmere so great and why. Lastly, we'll look at how you can test for it. Be warned, this is quite a hefty read, so be prepared to wow (and bore) your friends with your encyclopaedic knowledge on the subject.
---
Cashmere is, and always will be, one of the last words in luxury. In fact, the word ‘cashmere’ has been used so often in conjunction with words like ‘quality’ and ‘luxury’ that people now associate them without question. When people see a label reading “100% cashmere” they subconsciously assume that it will be “luxury” and “quality”. It is essential to understand that not all cashmere is equal. That is why some sweaters pill and fall apart and some get better with age. That is why there can be such a vast difference in price between two items that are both technically 100% cashmere.
---
At every stage in the production of cashmere there are choices to be made. Each of these essential choices contribute massively to the quality, softness and ultimately the price of the final garment. Lets start at the beginning
Choosing the right goat and it’s habitat is the first key decision. For reasons discussed in a minute, two of the key qualities we are looking for in each cashmere strand are length and fineness. The best cashmere uses only the longest, thinnest strands. To grow these long, thin strands, a goat needs to be cold. Really cold.
---
Some of the best cashmere comes from goats living in the Gobi Desert facing winter lows of -40°C. These dramatic temperatures force the goats to grow thick winter coats of longer, finer hairs. When the Spring comes and temperatures rise, the goats shed these winter coats and the cashmere is collected by the goat farmers. On to the next step…
Choosing the right goat and it’s habitat is the first key decision. For reasons discussed in a minute, two of the key qualities we are looking for in each cashmere strand are length and fineness. The best cashmere uses only the longest, thinnest strands. To grow these long, thin strands, a goat needs to be cold. Really cold.
---
Some of the best cashmere comes from goats living in the Gobi Desert facing winter lows of -40°C. These dramatic temperatures force the goats to grow thick winter coats of longer, finer hairs. When the Spring comes and temperatures rise, the goats shed these winter coats and the cashmere is collected by the goat farmers. On to the next step…
The sorting stage is where we see the first big choice that effects everything about the finished garment. The winter fleece from the goat contains many kinds of hairs. Coarse guard hairs, short fat hairs, long thin hairs and everything in between. We already know that we’re looking for the longest, thinnest hairs to make the best garments. I’ll add here that we’re also looking for the whitest and now is probably a good time to look at why…
---
The thinner the hair, the softer the garment. The best Grade A cashmere runs between 14 and 16.5 microns in diameter. This is the softest and most luxurious feeling cashmere. Grades B and C, whilst still technically cashmere, are wider in diameter and do not possess the softness that we prize in the finished clothing
---
The longer the hair, the better it binds with its neighbours. In terms of durability this is a key choice. The highest quality cashmere has strand lengths of 36-40mm. This length allows them to form strong binds with each other to create a garment that hold’s its shape and resists pilling. Shorter cheaper strands of cashmere do not bind in the same way - they work their way out of the weave and end up sitting on the surface of the fabric as a ‘pill’.
The sorting stage is where we see the first big choice that effects everything about the finished garment. The winter fleece from the goat contains many kinds of hairs. Coarse guard hairs, short fat hairs, long thin hairs and everything in between. We already know that we’re looking for the longest, thinnest hairs to make the best garments. I’ll add here that we’re also looking for the whitest and now is probably a good time to look at why…
---
The thinner the hair, the softer the garment. The best Grade A cashmere runs between 14 and 16.5 microns in diameter. This is the softest and most luxurious feeling cashmere. Grades B and C, whilst still technically cashmere, are wider in diameter and do not possess the softness that we prize in the finished clothing
---
The longer the hair, the better it binds with its neighbours. In terms of durability this is a key choice. The highest quality cashmere has strand lengths of 36-40mm. This length allows them to form strong binds with each other to create a garment that hold’s its shape and resists pilling. Shorter cheaper strands of cashmere do not bind in the same way - they work their way out of the weave and end up sitting on the surface of the fabric as a ‘pill’.
The whiter the hair, the less dying is needed to achieve a desired colour. For want of a better analogy, the more you dye the cashmere, the more ‘coats of paint’ you are adding to each strand. The more coats on each strand, the more it loses it's softness.
---
The cashmere sorting is an essential choice for the quality and longevity of the finished garment. As you might have guessed, we only use the highest grade A cashmere in all of our pieces.
---
Is it worth the extra cost of sorting the hairs and only using a tiny proportion of what is technically still cashmere?? Absolutely.
Cheap cashmere that uses low grade fibres is one the biggest false economies in clothing. Not only do they pill and fall apart quickly, they also do not possess the softness that is one of the most sought-after traits of cashmere. Using lower grades of cashmere is the key reason that some garments pill and fall apart within a few wears and some go on for decades. Its not the luck of the draw. It’s the sorting process.
The whiter the hair, the less dying is needed to achieve a desired colour. For want of a better analogy, the more you dye the cashmere, the more ‘coats of paint’ you are adding to each strand. The more coats on each strand, the more it loses it's softness.
---
The cashmere sorting is an essential choice for the quality and longevity of the finished garment. As you might have guessed, we only use the highest grade A cashmere in all of our pieces.
---
Is it worth the extra cost of sorting the hairs and only using a tiny proportion of what is technically still cashmere?? Absolutely.
Cheap cashmere that uses low grade fibres is one the biggest false economies in clothing. Not only do they pill and fall apart quickly, they also do not possess the softness that is one of the most sought-after traits of cashmere. Using lower grades of cashmere is the key reason that some garments pill and fall apart within a few wears and some go on for decades. Its not the luck of the draw. It’s the sorting process.
Getting from raw cashmere to a spool of coloured yarn is a time consuming art when done properly. We use Todd and Duncan, based in Scotland on the banks of Loch Leven for this process. Renowned worldwide for producing the finest cashmere, with a signature handfeel, for this section we will follow along with their fascinating process, highlighting the key points.
---
After double and triple checking the fibres for length and thickness, the first step is to dye the cashmere. For a superior colour depth and softness, the cashmere should always be dyed prior to spinning. The gentler the dyes, the better. Cheap chemical dyes damage the fibres making them coarser and more prone to breakages. As an aside, T&D uses the loch water to wash and dye the raw cashmere. The crystal clear water itself is one of the key components in what makes their cashmere feel as good as it does. The dyes are so gentle and environmentally friendly that once the water has been cleaned, it is returned to the loch. Testament to their gentle, environmentally friendly nature is the fact that Loch Leven hosts a world-renowned RSPB nature reserve.
Getting from raw cashmere to a spool of coloured yarn is a time consuming art when done properly. We use Todd and Duncan, based in Scotland on the banks of Loch Leven for this process. Renowned worldwide for producing the finest cashmere, with a signature handfeel, for this section we will follow along with their fascinating process, highlighting the key points.
---
After double and triple checking the fibres for length and thickness, the first step is to dye the cashmere. For a superior colour depth and softness, the cashmere should always be dyed prior to spinning. The gentler the dyes, the better. Cheap chemical dyes damage the fibres making them coarser and more prone to breakages. As an aside, T&D uses the loch water to wash and dye the raw cashmere. The crystal clear water itself is one of the key components in what makes their cashmere feel as good as it does. The dyes are so gentle and environmentally friendly that once the water has been cleaned, it is returned to the loch. Testament to their gentle, environmentally friendly nature is the fact that Loch Leven hosts a world-renowned RSPB nature reserve.
Once the cashmere is dyed, it’s time for carding. Carding is the process of detangling and separating the cashmere fibres whilst also aligning them parallel to one another ready to be spun. When done properly, this is a time consuming process. Rushing it will damage the cashmere fibres. T&D use their own custom spec carding machines, designed to achieve the highest level of quality and finished product.
---
Finally the yarn is spun, twisted and wound. T&D yarns are spun on modern mules with long draws for a more evenly levelled yarn. There are faster and more technically advanced alternatives, but only this slow process yields the exceptionally rounded and voluminous yarns that produce our signature cashmere feel. Everything is considered and perfected. Right down to the precise tension at which the finished yarn is wound onto the cone, which makes a huge difference to the knitting performance.
Once the cashmere is dyed, it’s time for carding. Carding is the process of detangling and separating the cashmere fibres whilst also aligning them parallel to one another ready to be spun. When done properly, this is a time consuming process. Rushing it will damage the cashmere fibres. T&D use their own custom spec carding machines, designed to achieve the highest level of quality and finished product.
---
Finally the yarn is spun, twisted and wound. T&D yarns are spun on modern mules with long draws for a more evenly levelled yarn. There are faster and more technically advanced alternatives, but only this slow process yields the exceptionally rounded and voluminous yarns that produce our signature cashmere feel. Everything is considered and perfected. Right down to the precise tension at which the finished yarn is wound onto the cone, which makes a huge difference to the knitting performance.
All of our cashmere pieces are handmade in the UK. There is no automated machine making everything. Each is piece is hand made individually, by masters of their craft. Expertly tensioned, finished and washed to a standard of perfection that ranks among the best in the world. Given the meticulous process of getting the raw cashmere from a goat in the Gobi Desert, to a knitter in the uk, it would fooling to use anyone but the best. When we design, we do not allow any compromises on the finished piece (see the DESIGN PROCESSsection) and our knitters always accomplish even the most complicated vision to the highest degree
So there we have it - a finished garment. If you’re still awake and following, well done.
---
Did you need to know everything in this article?? Probably not.
---
Do the people who make your cashmere need to know everything in this article?? Absolutely.
---
Are you going to be able to tell the difference between good cashmere and bad cashmere in a shop?? Unfortunately not.
Facts and words can only take you so far and unless you plan on interrogating a shop assistant for answers, you’re going to need tangible knowledge which brings us to the final part of this piece.
All of our cashmere pieces are handmade in the UK. There is no automated machine making everything. Each is piece is hand made individually, by masters of their craft. Expertly tensioned, finished and washed to a standard of perfection that ranks among the best in the world. Given the meticulous process of getting the raw cashmere from a goat in the Gobi Desert, to a knitter in the uk, it would fooling to use anyone but the best. When we design, we do not allow any compromises on the finished piece (see the DESIGN PROCESSsection) and our knitters always accomplish even the most complicated vision to the highest degree
So there we have it - a finished garment. If you’re still awake and following, well done.
---
Did you need to know everything in this article?? Probably not.
---
Do the people who make your cashmere need to know everything in this article?? Absolutely.
---
Are you going to be able to tell the difference between good cashmere and bad cashmere in a shop?? Unfortunately not.
Facts and words can only take you so far and unless you plan on interrogating a shop assistant for answers, you’re going to need tangible knowledge which brings us to the final part of this piece.
---
When purchasing cashmere, here are the four things to look out for.
---
PILING
Friction is the cause of piling. Rubbing against things like seatbelts and handbag straps creates friction that’s causes the cashmere fibres to work their way loose and pill. All cashmere will pill to a certain degree. Even the very best cashmere will lose some strands. However, if a sweater is already piling heavily in the shop before its really experienced any friction then it’s almost certainly got a high percentage of short, cheap cashmere strands. To test this, take the palm of your hand and rub it gently down the sweater. If fibres raise and start piling under your touch, avoid it.
---
TENSION
An easy way to save money when producing cashmere is to lower the tension at the knitting stage. This allows you to use less cashmere for the same sized piece. The problem with this is that it has a huge impact on the stability of the garment. This is why some sweaters instantly lose their shape. Good cashmere should have a nice ping when you tug it gently. I stress the word gently here!! You don’t need to be swinging off a sweater like you’re ringing a church bell. Just a gentle tug and release. It should ping back to shape and tell you all you need to know. If it doesn’t ping and just loses shape, avoid it.
---
PRICE
Not in the way you think. In the world of consumer goods, you won’t need to look far to find brands charging high prices for low quality goods. Whilst a high price tag can be a good indicator of quality, it is not a guarantee. However, it is impossible to charge low prices for for great quality. If it seems to good to be true, it probably is.
---
SOFTNESS
This is a really tricky one. You would assume that softer means better. Unfortunately this is not always the case. Cashmere should be soft - certainly softer than any other kind of wool - but it has a natural softness, not a synthetic softness. It feels like a really really soft wool. Silky but robust. When it feels synthetically soft or very delicate it means that it has been pre-washed with enzymes so soften it. This is often done with lower grades of cashmere to trick unwary customers. The result feels overly super soft when you touch it in the store and then instantly falls apart when you wear it. This is due the damage the enzymes have done to the fibres in the garment. Many people get tricked in this way and it’s a hard one to avoid if you’re not experienced with cashmere. The more you come into contact with the real thing, the quicker you will feel the difference.
---
When purchasing cashmere, here are the four things to look out for.
---
PILING
Friction is the cause of piling. Rubbing against things like seatbelts and handbag straps creates friction that’s causes the cashmere fibres to work their way loose and pill. All cashmere will pill to a certain degree. Even the very best cashmere will lose some strands. However, if a sweater is already piling heavily in the shop before its really experienced any friction then it’s almost certainly got a high percentage of short, cheap cashmere strands. To test this, take the palm of your hand and rub it gently down the sweater. If fibres raise and start piling under your touch, avoid it.
---
TENSION
An easy way to save money when producing cashmere is to lower the tension at the knitting stage. This allows you to use less cashmere for the same sized piece. The problem with this is that it has a huge impact on the stability of the garment. This is why some sweaters instantly lose their shape. Good cashmere should have a nice ping when you tug it gently. I stress the word gently here!! You don’t need to be swinging off a sweater like you’re ringing a church bell. Just a gentle tug and release. It should ping back to shape and tell you all you need to know. If it doesn’t ping and just loses shape, avoid it.
---
PRICE
Not in the way you think. In the world of consumer goods, you won’t need to look far to find brands charging high prices for low quality goods. Whilst a high price tag can be a good indicator of quality, it is not a guarantee. However, it is impossible to charge low prices for for great quality. If it seems to good to be true, it probably is.
---
SOFTNESS
This is a really tricky one. You would assume that softer means better. Unfortunately this is not always the case. Cashmere should be soft - certainly softer than any other kind of wool - but it has a natural softness, not a synthetic softness. It feels like a really really soft wool. Silky but robust. When it feels synthetically soft or very delicate it means that it has been pre-washed with enzymes so soften it. This is often done with lower grades of cashmere to trick unwary customers. The result feels overly super soft when you touch it in the store and then instantly falls apart when you wear it. This is due the damage the enzymes have done to the fibres in the garment. Many people get tricked in this way and it’s a hard one to avoid if you’re not experienced with cashmere. The more you come into contact with the real thing, the quicker you will feel the difference.
.
.
Sign up for new releases & important news...
